di MABEL VIAGGI SRL

VISITING LUCCA

Lucca likes to promote itself as a diminutive Florence or Siena without the afflictions of mass tourism,offering a cheerful normality not always encountered in its more illustrious neighbours. Yet with its refined churches, family palaces and the remarkable imprint of a Roman amphitheatre, all joined together by a spider's web of medieval streets, this carefully preserved, walled Roman town, the birthplace of Puccini, is worth a visit in its own right



Tower Guinigi Have you ever see oak trees on the top of a tower? No!?! Well, then you must climb up the Guinigi Tower. This characteristic tower has been added in the 15th century to the house of the most famous family in town, the Guinigis. The entrance is in Via Sant'Andrea, a narrow lane with a lot of old shops (among all two antique shops, one for each side, and a shoemaker), that connects Via Fillungo to Via Guinigi. To reach the top you have to do a lot of steps (they say 230 but I've never count them) and the final part of the stairs (when metal steps starts) could be hard if you suffer of heights... but when you'll get the top... WOW, resting under the shadow of big oaks you can admire Lucca from an amazing point of view. All the churches, squares and bell towers will appear under your eyes wherever you turn your head. You will see that in Lucca there is much more to see respect to what you can find on your guide. Every house, every roof will seem to be worth to be visit. Lucca is roughly oval, flat and hardly a mile across. Within this span there are no wide roads to cross, but a multitude of old churches, little piazzas, towers and family businesses. Behind many an arching doorway there is a glimpse of vaulted passage or columned yard, usually private. This is a town where you can dispense with a map and simply walk or, like the locals, cycle: pretty soon you’re bound to come back to somewhere you recognize or to the city rampart, which offers a high and grassy promenade (generally only resembling a wall when seen from outside).

Besides the Torre Guinigi, the Torre delle Ore is the second tower in Lucca which offers scenic views of the city. Since the Middle Ages it is equipped with a big clock. The present clockwork is swiss, but surprisingly the clock was about 2 minutes slow when I was there. But that's just Italy ...

 

A small Circular Piazza with entrances at the four points of the compass stands on the site of the town’s Roman amphitheatre. Piazza del Anfiteatro (or Roman Amphitheatre Square) is a round square surrounded by colorful typical Italian buildings. This square is named as Roman Amphitheatre since it was built where formerly stood one. Nowadays it is a "bustling" square, visited both by tourists and locals, where there are varied restaurants and cafes, most of them with open air tables. Also, some touristy shops may be found on this lively, yet lovely, square.

The beautiful church of San Frediano, founded by an Irish Saint , keeps the intact body of a later Saint on show for the faithful, as well as a vast 12th-century font with figures carved with such force as to seem more Viking than Romanesque. Church San Frediano is situated on Piazza San Frediano, by Piazza del Anfiteatro. It is a beautiful church, made in white stone and with an astonishing painting on its facade – see detail on my first photo on the travelogue about Lucca’s churches. Inside, the church is equally breathtaking. It is built in richly carved white marble and the side chapels show beautiful details and paintings. The pipe organ is not too big but richly it is carved in gold painted wood. There are some tombs inside, but I don’t know anything about them. The entrance to this church, unlike some others in Italy, is free and you may wander at ease and use your camera.

For contrast, find the statue of Lucca’s favorite son, Puccini, relaxing with a cigarette. The Giacomo Puccini Museum was inaugurated in 1979, and it belongs to the Puccini Foundation (established in 1973). It is located in the house where Giacomo Puccini, the last of a family of musicians who dominated the musical scene in Lucca, was born. This house is situated at Corte San Lorenzo, 9 in Lucca. Puccini was born on December 22, 1858. He spent his childhood and early youth in this home before they moved to Milan where he continued his studies. He loved this house in Lucca where he was born, and it was his will that it should remain the property of his family. The museum has a number of documents and memorabilia concerning his life and work. The piano used by Puccini for the composition of Turnandot is here. It was extremely rewarding to see Puccini's home, his piano, and his music. In my mind's eye, I could picture him sitting at his favorite location creating his beloved pieces all those years ago. Just think, he still lives today! Admission charges: Under $5.00 (American) Opening Time: 10-13 and 15-18 (from March to June 30 and Sept. 1 to Nov. 15) 10-13 and 15-19 (July and August) 10-13 (From Nov. 16-Dec.31) Closed on Mondays

Lucca's other tourist attractions include a fine Duomo in the Pisan style, alongside its own museum, both of which contain fine work by Jacopo della Quercia. This is the Romanesque cathedral of Lucca, built in the 12/13th century and located in piazza San Martino right next to the Walls. It's the biggest church in Lucca, all built in white and grey marble, with different rows of columns on the facade and a statue of San Martino drawing his sword riding his horse. The interior is really dark and austere (when I was a kid I was scarred by this church), but there are a lot of art masterpiece (statues, paintings, organs, furniture...). The ceiling is very high, as a gothic cathedral, and there are some beautiful colored glass windows that create amazing light game on the inside. The contrast between the coloured figures projected on the floor and the darkness and silence of this church is breathtaking. In a chapel inside the church there is the statue called "Volto Santo" (that means "Holy face"). This statue represent Jesus crucified, and it's one of the rare figure that represent Jesus as a dark-skinned man (as probably he was). In September this statue is dressed with golden clothes and accessories included a golden cup placed under a foot to gather the holy blood.

Located over the old Roman forum, and named for it, is another grand church: San Michele in Foro. Art-lovers will want to explore the Pinacoteca Nazionale, the town's art gallery and the Museo Guinigi, which contains sculpture as well as paintings. The Church of San Michele In Foro was almost right outside our Hotel Pucinni! It is probably the most photographed church in Lucca. The facade is really quite delightful. It has a high ribbed and richly sculpted facade which gives the impression of a propped-up film set because the windows look through into thin air! Why? Because money ran out before that part of the church could be raised to the level of the facade. Interestingly, every single column is different. Some of the columns are elaborately carved; some are twisted and spiralling; others are like a striped pole. The figure at the top is the archangel, and the wings are hinged and may be retracted if the wind is strong enough! If the sun is at the right angle, you may see a glimmer up above, which would be the jewel in a ring on the hand of the statue. The whole building is covered by barrel vaults with lunettes. The walls are of perfectly squared limestone blocks. This church is dedicated to Saint Michael, the archangel (probably the statue of the Archangel represents Michael). The church supposedly was finished in 1,000 and rebuilt in 1122. This church is really a basilica with three aisles and semicircular apse. You can spend a great deal of time inside the church because it is so fascinating and quite beautiful. We visited it several times while in Lucca for six days.

Palazzo Pfanner, built around 1667 and belonged to the homonym successful surgical, is a typical example of the architecture of that period. There is a beautiful wide staircase leading to the great elegant balcony overlooking the beautiful garden, facing the city Walls. The 18th century italian style garden has a huge collection of plants and statues surrounding a fountain pond. Inside the palace there is an exhibition of the instruments belonged to Dr. Pfanner and, in general, of the lifestyle of a rich and famous man in the old 17th century. The palace is very easy to see if you walk on the Walls... just beside the apse of San Frediano church you can find the garden and the rear of the palace.

Piazza Napoleone This square is the very center of the city and it is used for many events (concerts in Summer, ice skating in December, open party for New Year's Eve,...). Surrounded by trees it has a marble statue of Elisa Bonaparte Baciocchi (the sister of Napoleone) standing in its centre. Facing the front of the statue there is Palazzo Ducale (Palace of Dukes). In this palace there is several institutions for the city and its province, the most useful for you it's one of the three tourist information office. Although it's very nice to visit this palace is closed to tourists except for a few special weekends per year. On the right side of the square there is one of the two schools for fine arts in town (the other is in Via Fillungo). The other two sides are full of shops, cheap cafes and expensive restaurants. On the North-East corner open Piazza del Giglio with its homonym city theater.

In and around Lucca you will find many Water Fountains. The water comes from the mountains between Lucca and Pisa, called "Monti Pisani". The water is drinkable and you will see many locals refilling their plastic bottles and cans at the fountains. I drank the healthy water 3 days and I am still alive, so the water can't be that bad.

Shoppers looking for smart boutiques should head for the Via Fillungo and Via Gallitassi; while more laid-back tourists will appreciate the coffee/tea shops and little places selling local wines and cheeses on Via Paulino. Both are on the western side of town but you will come upon them anyway as you explore the historic streets.

Concerts take place in the bigger piazzas during the summer, not necessarily Puccini and not all classical (Eric Clapton for example in July 2006).

The beautiful small town of Montecarlo (short distance from Lucca). We drove there one afternoon, spending a leisurely few hours exploring the town of 4,000 inhabitants, stopping for refreshments (we had delicious gelato), petting cats/kittens that we spotted; we rested & watched the day-to-day activity of this lovely, small village. The well preserved historical center is surrounded by splendid walls. Today, wine & flowers are produced here. It is not contaminated & without air pollution; only a marvelous relationship between man & nature. Don't let the small size of this village fool you about its historic importance! After many wars, the inhabitants of the territory of Montecarlo found refuge on the top of a hill. In this place, a stonewalled village was built. Montecarlo is a place of great importance for its road system, crossed first by via Cassia, then in the Middle Ages by the Francigena, & boasted the presence of 2 hospitals. It was founded in 1333 by the lucchese people, and it was named in honor Ofarlo di Boemia, Arrigo's VII's grandchild for the help he was given during the war against Florence. Montecarlo has THE SANT'ANDREA'S COLLEGIATE CHURCH, THE SANT'ANNA CONVENT, THE THEATRE OF RASSICURATI. The town is on a high level, giving beautiful views of the countryside. There are many steep streets to climb as you explore this darling village. Most buildings & homes have small flower boxes displaying beautiful plants. The attitude is quite "laid back"; it is a great place to just wander & "people watch". We had a great time. You can easily reach Montecarlo from Lucca (a distance of 17 Km) driving along Via Romana toward Altopascio. It's good to know that in the wooded areas (known as "AI Comunali")an ecological & educational trail with varied vegetation was created. Inside a little valley, near a stream, the remains of a hermitage have been found (the hermitage of Santa Margherita).

There’s a lot to be said for Lucca as a base. It’s only a dozen miles from Pisa and fifty from Florence, while being less hectic than these honey-pots. Neither is the town so busy in summer as to go dead in winter. Going north from Lucca, the wooded hills soon turn into real mountains, often called the Apuan Alps or the Marble Mountains, which can be streaked with snow well into March. This area, the Garfagnana, is up-and-coming for those who like to combine their Tuscan villages with highly scenic walks: its main centre is little Barga, but with transport one could explore the district from Lucca itself.

For more informations please contact our Travel agency or call +39.333.4501258

Copyright 2006-2008 © Raed Shaalan. Tutti i diritti riservati
A12 Web Designer