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VISITING CINQUE TERRE

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Cinque Terre and the best of Liguria

Monterosso al MareThe Cinque Terre stretch of coastline is a National Park, and a Protected Marine Area, included on UNESCO's World Heritage List After being placed on a list of sites at risk, the Park Authority began a long term project to revitalize the farming practices behind the characteristic hillside terraces, many of which were falling into abandonment. It also aims at a sustainable level of tourism, maintaining the character and beauty of the region. Despite the number of tourists - which is at times overpowering - the schemes appear to be succeeding admirably. There is a real sense of local identity even in the most tourist-crammed little piazze. Restaurants, bars and accommodation all have an endearingly homespun air about them, as though when the locals saw tourists coming they found a few garden chairs to stick on their terrace, hand painted a sign and began serving customers. The Cinque Terre are (north to south): Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore. Below is our brief run-down on each one.

Monterosso al Mare

Monterosso has a certain amount of history as a seaside resort, and its name may be the most familiar. It has the most beach of all the Cinque Terre, but probably the least charm. More accessible by car than the others, the result is expanses of tarmac by the seafront. There are several beach, where you can pay for a sun bed, and several trips where the beach is free to all.

Vernazza

Vernazza is an extremely charming small fishing port, with rooftops piled and confused around the little harbour and up the slopes towards a fortified tower, the Castello Doria. The small piazza by the harbour is lined with good restaurants and bars, and busy with ageing residents as well as tourists; the atmosphere is laidback and jovial, especially as the sun sets behind a distant headland and the painted buildings glow warmly in response.

Corniglia

Corniglia

Corniglia is the only one of the Cinque Terre to be perched up above sea level - a steep climb if you arrive on foot. Like a pine cone, the Corniglia mound is covered in clinging roofs and painted houses. The narrow alleys are buzzing with children playing and walkers stocking up at the little general stores. A panoramic terrace affords great views from the top of the headland, where the houses give way to giddying steep cultivated terraces above the sea.

Manarola

Manarola is pleasant and peaceful, with more of an air of modernity than its nearest neighbours. There's a rocky cove which is popular with swimmers, and bars and restaurants overlooking the sea. There's also a tiny but pretty park at the beginning of the footpath to Corniglia, where you can sit and relax.

 

Riomaggiore

From Riomaggiore a pedestrian tunnel runs alongside the railway towards the harbour and heart of town. The town is pretty, with tall houses marching up the hill away from the sea; all painted pastels and green shutters. There are plenty of eateries of all kinds.

Cinque Terre Swimming and Beaches

For the most traditional beach experience - umbrellas and sand - head to Monterosso (see above). However, all along the coast there are rocky outcrops, harbour quays and sloping pebble beaches covered with eager bodies basking in the sun, or enjoying a cooling swim in the beautiful blue water. A particular long expanse of pebble beach can be found by Corniglia railway station.

 

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