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VISITING CINQUE TERRE

Cinque Terre and the best of Liguria
The
Cinque Terre stretch of coastline is a National Park,
and a Protected Marine Area, included on UNESCO's
World Heritage List After being placed on a list of
sites at risk, the Park Authority began a long term
project to revitalize the farming practices behind the
characteristic hillside terraces, many of which were
falling into abandonment. It also aims at a
sustainable level of tourism, maintaining the
character and beauty of the region. Despite the number
of tourists - which is at times overpowering - the
schemes appear to be succeeding admirably. There is a
real sense of local identity even in the most
tourist-crammed little piazze. Restaurants, bars and
accommodation all have an endearingly homespun air
about them, as though when the locals saw tourists
coming they found a few garden chairs to stick on
their terrace, hand painted a sign and began serving
customers. The Cinque Terre
are (north to south): Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza,
Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore. Below is our
brief run-down on each one.
Monterosso al Mare
Monterosso has a certain amount of history as a
seaside resort, and its name may be the most familiar.
It has the most beach of all the Cinque Terre, but
probably the least charm. More accessible by car than
the others, the result is expanses of tarmac by the
seafront. There are several beach, where
you can pay for a sun bed, and several trips where the beach is free to all.
Vernazza
Vernazza is an extremely charming small fishing port,
with rooftops piled and confused around the
little harbour and up the slopes towards a fortified
tower, the Castello Doria. The small piazza by the
harbour is lined with good restaurants and bars, and
busy with ageing residents as well as tourists; the
atmosphere is laidback and jovial, especially as the
sun sets behind a distant headland and the painted
buildings glow warmly in response.
Corniglia
Corniglia is the only one of the Cinque Terre to be
perched up above sea level - a steep climb if you
arrive on foot. Like a pine cone, the Corniglia mound
is covered in clinging roofs and painted houses. The
narrow alleys are buzzing with children playing and
walkers stocking up at the little general
stores. A panoramic terrace affords great views from
the top of the headland, where the houses give way to
giddying steep cultivated terraces above the sea.
Manarola
Manarola is pleasant and peaceful, with more of an air
of modernity than its nearest neighbours. There's a
rocky cove which is popular with swimmers, and bars
and restaurants overlooking the sea. There's also a
tiny but pretty park at the beginning of the footpath
to Corniglia, where you can sit and relax.
Riomaggiore
From
Riomaggiore a pedestrian tunnel runs alongside the
railway towards the harbour and heart of town. The
town is pretty, with tall houses marching up the hill
away from the sea; all painted pastels and green
shutters. There are plenty of eateries of all kinds.
Cinque Terre Swimming and Beaches
For
the most traditional beach experience - umbrellas and
sand - head to Monterosso (see above). However, all
along the coast there are rocky outcrops, harbour
quays and sloping pebble beaches covered with eager
bodies basking in the sun, or enjoying a cooling swim
in the beautiful blue water. A particular long
expanse of pebble beach can be found by Corniglia
railway station.
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